Purana Qila Delhi – History, Timings, Ticket & Travel Guide

History of Purana Qila (Answering the Epic Question: Purana Qila was built by whom?)

The simple factual inquiry—who built Purana Qila?—turns into a complex and thrilling political tale involving two major Islamic empires battling for dominion over India. The correct, expert answer to the question ‘Purana Qila was built by’ whom, is a dual response that reveals a classic historical grudge match: the first layers were founded by the Mughals, and the fortress as we recognize it today was fully executed by the Afghans.

The Original Vision: Humayun and Din-panah

The formal construction began with the Mughal Emperor Humayun, the second emperor of the empire, around the year 1533 CE. He decided that Delhi needed a grand, defensible city of its own, so he created the foundations of Din-panah, which translates profoundly to the ‘Refuge of the Faith.’ Humayun managed to lay out the massive quadrilateral design, begin work on the ramparts, and established the basic urban geography of the city which he dreamt of as a scholarly hub.

The Usurper’s Masterpiece: Sher Shah Suri

Then came the inevitable historical twist: Humayun was defeated in 1540 by Sher Shah Suri, a formidable Afghan military commander of the Sur dynasty. Suri seized control, tore down some of Humayun’s partial constructions, and ruthlessly pushed forward to complete the fortress for his own use. He re-named the capital Shergarh, transforming the promising outline into a virtually impregnable military and political power center. It was Suri, during his brief but transformative five-year reign (1540-1545 CE), who executed the towering bastions, the final massive gateways, and the exquisite inner structures like the Qila-e-Kuhna Mosque. So, while Humayun deserves credit for laying the stones, the final, imposing fort of Purana Qila was built by Sher Shah Suri, whose vision and budget secured its completion.

Key Moments in the Fort’s Historical Timeline:

1. 1533 CE: Purana Qila’s groundwork laid by Mughal Emperor Humayun (Din-panah).
2. 1540–1545 CE: Suri completed the main ramparts, creating the fully fortified Shergarh. The architectural blend from this short, focused period is priceless.
3. Post-Suri: Following the return of Humayun, the fort was utilized, most famously as the site where the second Mughal emperor tragically fell to his death from the steep steps of his library, the Sher Mandal, in 1556.
4. 1857 CE Onwards: The structure and its grounds served administrative, political, and even detaining purposes under the British Raj, becoming a stark witness to India’s shift toward the colonial period. After Partition, it temporarily provided essential shelter for refugees.

Architecture & Design of Purana Qila

The architectural identity of Purana Qila is what makes it a crucial historical bookmark. It’s an essential blend—the nascent stylistic concepts brought by the Mughals layered beneath the mature, functional strength perfected by the Suri dynasty, making it distinctly Indo-Afghan.

The Dominance of the Massive Gates

The fort is nearly one mile in circuit, rectangular, and was historically protected by a massive surrounding moat fed by the adjacent Yamuna river. The fortifications feature two concentric rings, making defense extremely efficient. Your exploration starts by crossing the moat bridge and entering through one of the three spectacular gateways:

1. The Bara Darwaza (Great Gate): This is the massive, dual-arched entry point on the Western wall and your main path in. Flanked by massive bastions, it is almost purely an expression of power. Look for the stunning juxtaposition of the main gate, which utilizes a substantial amount of red sandstone, set against subtle touches of white marble for ornamentation and balance.
2. Humayun Gate: On the southern end, this gate retains more early-Mughal elements, including details that reflect traditional Persian architectural tropes, paying respect to the founder—or perhaps subtly emphasizing Mughal legitimacy over Suri’s rule in the grand design.
3. Talaqi Darwaza (Prohibited/Forbidden Gate): This is the northern exit/entry. Historians speculate about the ‘prohibited’ aspect of its name. Note the intriguing and highly significant architectural deviation here: beneath the archways, carvings once existed depicting motifs like elephants, a detail very uncommon for strictly enforced Islamic structures, again hinting at the deep influence of indigenous Indian craftsmanship.

Structures Inside the Fort’s Embrace

The interior houses a handful of structures, deliberately less dense than other Mughal forts (like the Red Fort), reinforcing its primarily military purpose, yet each structure is a study in precise detail:

1. Qila-e-Kuhna Mosque (Mosque of the Old Fort): Finished in 1541 CE, this is where the genius of Sher Shah Suri’s architecture truly shines. I would argue this is one of Delhi’s most significant—and often overlooked—16th-century mosques. Look up at the meticulous internal decoration: intricate stonework, highly colored enamelled tiles (particularly Persian blue, a striking contrast to the red walls), and a beautiful blending of white and black marble into the red sandstone.
2. Sher Mandal: This unique, two-storied, octagonal pavilion is critical because it highlights a change in function—it was a personal pleasure retreat and, most significantly, Emperor Humayun’s library. This is the spot where, just after reclaiming his throne, the great emperor fatally slipped and fell while reportedly climbing the steps for evening prayers or astronomical observations.
3. The Archaeological Museum: Conveniently housed near the Bara Darwaza, the fort contains a well-curated site museum. As a traveler seeking genuine insight, I always make a point of visiting these, as they physically ground the mythological with the factual. The artifacts displayed here, from terracotta figurines and coinage to that critical Painted Grey Ware, are proof of life stretching back almost 3000 years right where you are standing.

Photography and Exploration Tip for Visitors:

The monumental scale of the walls means excellent photographic opportunities abound, especially the way the light rakes the red sandstone walls during the early hours or late afternoon. To truly appreciate the scale, plan on walking along the inner perimeter walls, though be mindful of heat and hydration (more on that later).